Visa
Getting a visa for Afghanistan has become difficult recently. Most diplomatic missions around the world are not currently issuing visas. At the moment only a small handful are, including Islamabad, Dubai, Oslo, Madrid and Kuala Lumpur.
Another hurdle you'll face is the sincere concern of the embassy staff who are genuinely concerned about your safety. A lot of the questioning will surround whether you realise where you are travelling to, and the dangers involved.
If you're a female, they will usually want to know if you're travelling with a male. Not because it's legally necessary, but because it is a safety concern.
The only visa you'll be able to get is a tourist visa as there are no other relevant options.
Find out more about the current visa situation by visiting our Visa page .
Getting In and Out
Most people arrive in Afghanistan by flying into Hamid Karzai International Airport in Kabul, and depart the same way. It’s not a very connected airport, but there are regular flights to and from Dubai, Istanbul, Islamabad, Doha, Delhi and a few other cities around the region. Kam Air and Ariana Afghanistan are the two main airlines, since the major airlines such as Emirates no longer fly to Afghanistan. For more information on airlines who fly to Afghanistan, check out our update here .
There are also several land borders that used to be possible to cross. The land borders with Iran, Pakistan and Tajikistan are now fully open. The border with Turkmenistan is also officially open and some tourists have managed to cross recently, however the Turkmenistan government rarely issues Letter of Invitations to those wishing to cross this border. The border with Uzbekistan is still completely closed.
The main land border crossings, that are open to foreigners, to enter or exit Afghanistan are Islam Qala between Herat in Afghanistan and Mashhad in Iran, Torghundi between Herat and Mary in Turkmenistan, Torkham between Afghanistan and Pakistan in the famous Khyber pass, and finally Shir Khan Bandar between Kunduz in Afghanistan and Dushanbe in Tajikistan.
For a comprehensive guide on all these border crossings, have a read of this blog that we wrote about them.
See and Do
Kabul
Kabul has more to offer than just being somewhere to arrive and depart from. Not only are there some of the most famous sights such as the Babur Gardens, Kabul Museum, British Cemetery (which is home to Billy Batman's grave ), the Bird Market, Chicken Street and several mosques. There is also an increasingly cosmopolitan feel as young people grow in confidence, reclaiming their city with hip cafes, modern fashion and trendy restaurants.
Mazar e Sharif
Mazar has always been a favourite for tourists visiting Afghanistan as it is one of the safest parts of the country. It also has the country’s most famous sight – the famous Blue Mosque, the Shrine of Ali. It's also a great springboard for the ancient city of Balkh and the Buddhist caves at Samangan.
Herat
Herat is famous for its citadel. It is also in the part of the country where the culture, cuisine and architecture are mostly Persian influenced.
Panjshir
The most famous stronghold of the Mujahadeen during the war with the Soviet Union, the Panjshir has been most famous as an escape from the hustle and bustle of Kabul life. Fresh air, perennial snow-capped mountains, and a beautiful crystal-clear river, driving through the Panjshir you'll almost forget there's a conflict going on in the rest of the country.
This has been one of the safest places in Afghanistan to visit for a long time, however now unfortunately due to ongoing conflict with the Taliban, it is one of the hardest places to visit.
Bamiyan
Known for its natural beauty, Bamiyan is in Hazarajat and was once home to the largest Buddha statues in the world, until they were blown up by the Taliban (during their first stint in power). Parts of the statues still remain, and the beauty of the sight more than makes up for the statues no longer being there, so it is absolutely still worth a visit.
Kandahar
Previously difficult and dangerous to travel to, Kandahar is the spiritual home of the Taliban and the former Taliban capital. Before the recent takeover, Kandahar was also the kidnapping capital of Afghanistan and was the riskiest part of the country to go to, but now is as safe as other cities in Afghanistan to visit.
Why visit Afghanistan?
Afghanistan is a country which has been in a constant state of upheaval for centuries. Located on the crossroads of some of the world’s major regions – the Middle East, the Subcontinent, East/South East Asia and Central Asia/Russia – Afghanistan has been fought over by almost every major power since the beginning of time. Yet even with a history of so many unwelcome foreigners, you'll still experience some of the most amazing hospitality the world has to offer.
If you're brave enough to take the plunge, you'll see and experience a culture that few foreigners ever get to see – certainly not most foreigners who are in Afghanistan, since most are either as part of a deployment or working for a foreign government or organisation. Afghanistan sees plenty of foreigners, but very few tourists.
Very few places are left on earth where your jaw drops the minute you arrive and doesn't stop dragging along the ground until after you've left. At times you'll be amazed at seeing practices and cultures unchanged for centuries. There will be moments when you're left in despair at some of the heartbreak which is an everyday occurrence, but most importantly you'll be left with hope for the future of this amazing country and its even more amazing people.
There is of course the concern with what has been coined dark tourism, however to suggest Afghanistan only has that to offer is to sell the country and its people short. You can read more on our thoughts on this matter on our “Is it ethical to travel to Afghanistan?” page.
Rules
Afghanistan is a conservative Islamic country with an extremely strict regime. As foreigners the rules we need to be most be aware of are those surrounding modesty. Both men and women travelling in Afghanistan need to adhear to conservative dress codes.
Being a strict Islamic country, Alcohol and pornography are banned. If you are found bringing them into the country you'll be detained and most likely deported.
Taking pictures of women and interacting with local women, as foreigners, is also not allowed. As a tourist you will end up interacting with local women, but this is unlikely to happen in a busy public area as it's officially not allowed.
Dress Code
The dress code in Afghanistan is conservative and must be adheared to out of respect for local customs, safety, and to avoid any legal issues.
Men should wear long trousers at all times, and a long sleeve shirt is more appropriate than a short sleeve shirt. You should make sure your clothes are not too tight, are plain and non-offensive.
If you join a Saiga Tours trip to Afghanistan, we enforce a rule of local clothes on all male guests for safety, as well as blending in with locals and melting the ice between ourselves and our hosts.
Women need to be fully covered. You should wear plain clothing which is baggy and does not reveal your body shape. Your head must be covered at all times and in some cases you may be required to cover your face as well, although this is rarely requested of foreigners. Your dress or skirt should cover your ankles and your top should cover your arms until your wrists. Unike in Iran you headscarf should be tightfitting and cover as much of your hair and head as possible.
Topics of Discussion
Politics, women's rights and ethnicity in Afghanistan are just a few topics which, except if you become very close and comfortable with someone, are generally off limits. They are very sensitive topics in Afghanistan, especially those questions of ethnicity.
Afghanistan and Afghani's are also a lot less exposed to Western culture such as films and music, as opposed to their neighbours in Iran, Pakistan or Uzbekistan, and as such it may be hard to bond over your favourite film or song. That being said Afghani's love Bollywood, so if you know your Bollywood films you'll be in luck.
Afghani's really love talking about family, food and their beloved cricket team, which is taking the world by storm. These are great topics to discuss with locals as you get to know them.
Talking about the Taliban and what people think of them is a difficult conversation to have. You will meet people who support them for various reasons, whether ideological or personal. It's best to keep an open mind and listen to what they have to say, rather than lecturing them on issues, that while important, won't change anything, whereas a positive interaction with a foreigner can change things.
Religion
Afghanistan is an Islamic country. more than 99% of the population are Muslim, with between 85% and 90% being Sunni, with 10-15% between Shia.
As recently as the start of the 20th century, there were large Jewish, Hindu and Sikh communities in Afghanistan, but by the end of the century due to emmigration, more than 99% of the population of Afghanistan was Muslim.
There are still small Christian and Baha'is communities in Afghanistan, however they need to operate in secret for their safety.
Politics
The Taliban took over Afghanistan in August 2021. Since then the country has been ruled as an Islamic theocracy. There are no elections or political parties.
The current leader of Afghanistan and therefore also leader of the Taliban is Hibatullah Akhundzada. His title is Amir of Afghanistan, but he is also known as the Supreme Leader. All government positions and ministries are appointed by the Supreme Leader, and come from the ranks of Taliban leadership.
Between 2001 and 2021, Afghanistan was an unstable Presidential republic, which was far from any democratic ideals. Factionalism and warlords were the rule of the roost, with back door deals and corruption being the norm. While there were elections in Afghanistan, power brokers made the real decisions as well as Western countries that were there as part of the assistance force.
Ethnicity
Afghanistan is an ethnically very diverse country. The main ethnic groups are Pashtuns, Uzbeks, Tajiks, Hazara, Balochi, Turkmen, Nuristani, Pamiri, Mongol, Kyrgyz and Kurdish just to name a few.
The biggest group is Pashtun, which make up roughly 50% of the population of Afghanistan. Tajiks and Hazara together make up roughly 30% of the population, with Uzbeks being approximately 8%.
Photography
It is unlikely you will visit many places in the world as photogenic as Afghanistan. Around every corner is the next front cover of National Geographic waiting to be snapped.
There are no restrictions of camera equipment, so bring your best gear, however you will not be allowed to bring in drones.
PIctures of women, military and police are forbidden and you need to be careful as tempers can flare very quickly. That being said, during your time in Afghanistan you will have the chance to take pictures with Taliban soldiers, as well as local women, but you should consult you guide as to when it is appropriate to avoid any trouble with the authorities.
Hotels in Afghanistan
Afghanistan has every type of accommodation from extreme opulence to lying on a rug on the ground.
We don't recommend staying at the more upmarket hotels such as the Serena or the Intercontinental, as they are obviously targets and have both been attacked multiple times before.
We stay in unmarked guesthouses which are basic in many ways, but extremely comfortable, and with amazing staff who we know well, and who know how to make you feel at home. But these places are usually unidentifiable from the outside and therefor don’t become targets.
Nightlife in Afghanistan
For a conservative, strict Islamic country, which has been in major conflict for about 40 years and ongoing conflict for centuries, a country where alcohol is illegal, and the mixing of sexes is generally discouraged, you'd assume Afghanistan wouldn't really have a night life.
And you'd be correct.
It doesn't have a night life and it’s safest to be back in your guest house late at night anyway. The upside of this if you'll be able to enjoy your fellow travellers’ company with a game of cards, a nice chat over tea or even get an early night's sleep. And don’t worry, the days will be exhilarating enough, you definitely won’t feel bored!
Shopping in Afghanistan
You won't need much spending money as there generally isn't much to buy. The most popular souvenirs are of course the famous Afghan rugs, which can be anything from USD$20-30 into the thousands depending on the size and quality (which obviously is the exception to not needing much spending money!).
Other than rugs, local clothes and small handicrafts are also popular, but these are usually only a few dollars. There are also gemstones available, but you should probably make sure you know what you're looking at before purchasing a ‘priceless' gem.
When is the best time to visit Afghanistan?
We recommend travelling there in spring or autumn. Other than conflict, another thing that Afghanistan is famous for is extreme weather. Extremely hot summers and very cold winters. In spring and autumn you'll still experience days in the 30s, without the oppressiveness of summer, whilst also avoiding the cold, rain and even snow of winter.
What to eat in Afghanistan
Afghan food is simple and basic. It's also heavily dependent on meat, so it's not the greatest destination for vegetarians.
Mantu, kebab, and pilaf are the main dishes and you can read more about these on our Food and Drinks page .