Afghanistan sits at the crossroads of the Middle East, South Asia and Central Asia, and like any country that sits in a junction of great cultures food will inevitably be shaped by who surrounds you. So, it’s no surprise that Afghanistan’s cuisine is a mix of all three of these regions. From stews cooked in clay pots, to stamped circle-shaped breads and spicy biryanis you can find a wide range of foods in Afghanistan.
When eating out in Afghanistan most restaurant will have a huge menu with pages for local food, Chinese food, Pakistani/Indian food and even fast food with things like burgers and fried chicken. One of our favourite parts of guiding our Saiga Afghanistan group tours is the food and keeps us as guides wanting to come back for more!
Kebabs
Grilled meat on a stick is not specifically Afghan. In fact, nearly every culture has some form of it. Afghanistan has it in the form of what they call “tikka”. Tikka kebab is usually a small meat stick consisting of alternating layers of meat and fat. This is usually beef or lamb.
You can also get chicken on a stick in various forms, but to be honest you have to try the tikka kebab with the fat as this is just incredible and goes so well with the spice mix they will have on the table. You can find stalls selling grilled tikka kebabs all over the country. A great place if you have just arrived into Kabul is to check out the kebabs being grilled just near flower street close to Shahr-e-naw Park. Nearly everyone restaurant in Afghanistan will have tikka kebab on the menu.
Ashak and manto
Ashak and Manto are both types of large hand-made dumplings which are served with a yoghurt and red sauce on top over with a sprinkling of dried mint. These are very similar in style to manti dumplings found in Central Asia. Manto are filled with meat and onions and Ashak are filled with spinach or other soft greens. Both are incredibly delicious and if they have them fresh where you are eating, you absolutely should try them. Ashak is also a great option for vegetarians and if you get it without the yoghurt sauce it’s usually vegan toon.
Chainaki
This is one of our personal favourites. Chainaki means teapot in Dari and this is because the dish is cooked inside a terracotta teapot. This is similar to the Iranian dish called dizi. Meat is slow cooked with potatoes inside the teapot to make a delicious stew. The stew is then poured out and mixed with pieces of torn up bread which become soggy from the meat broth but add a fun full texture. When it’s cold out and you have this dish you will be in absolute heaven. Definitely a must try on your trip to Afghanistan.
Kabuli Pulao
This is the main big star of Afghan cuisine and everyone you meet in the country will go on and on about how delicious it is. It is good and you can find it absolutely everywhere! This is similar to a Central Asian plov or pilaf. The rice is cooked with a chunk of meat in the middle (usually lamb) and mixed with carrots and raisins. This is the number one staple dish in Afghanistan, and you won’t be able to visit without trying it. This dish is often eaten with hands by locals, however you can definitely use a spook with this one.
Bolani
Another one of our absolutely favourites. Bolani is a thin dough that is spread into a triangle shape and stuff with different vegetables and meats and then deep-fried till crispy. This is a common street food that you will see locals eating, however nowadays there are dedicated Bolani restaurants that have a myriad of fillings from vegetarian spinach, pumping and olive to chicken, beef and more. Bolani is often served with a tomato salsa on the side which is very similar to a very mild Mexican salsa and also a yoghurt sauce.
Our recommendation is to try with both sauces and eat as many as you can. Bolani is extremely cheap and if you ordered 10 of them, you’d probably pay less than $3.
Lamb neck (ghardan)
This is a more special dish that is harder to find, but is a particular speciality in some restaurants. Our pick is Galaxy restaurant in Ghazni if you find yourself there. This is exactly what it sounds like, the neck of the lamb. It is slow cooked for hours and just falls apart when it is served. The meat is served with a side chilli sauce or chutney and it best when eaten with fresh bread and of course a yoghurt sauce. Adding in some fresh vegetables and chillies will also just make it pop!
If you like meat and want to try something different you should absolutely order this. The version of this they serve at Galaxy Restaurant is quite big and the price does reflect that, but it is absolutely worth it.
Handi
Handi refers to the type of clay pot in which a gravy sauce or curry style dish is cooked. There are so many variations on this dish, but basically it is similar to a mild-to medium spicy chicken curry. As a standard they are usually delicious and very much scratch that itch if you are looking for something with some bold spicy flavours. We personally like a green mutton handy which has a spicy but slightly creamy sauce.
Handi are available in nearly all restaurants in Afghanistan and will be found in the Pakistani food section.
Fast food
All Afghan restaurants will have burgers, pizza and fried chicken on the menu, especially if you are in Kabul, Mazar or Kandahar. In our opinion the burgers are fine, the pizza can be hit or miss, but the chicken can be surprisingly good. On many menus they will have a chicken burger called a “zinger” (I’m sure KFC doesn’t mind them using that name) which is a great way to mix up things if you are getting tired of eating rice and meat.
Afghan-style Chinese food
Another way to mix up your culinary journey in Afghanistan is to try Afghan-style Chinese food. With amazing dishes such as beef chilli dry and chicken Manchurian, you can think of this food as a mix between western-style Chinese food with a few Indian/Pakistani spices thrown in. We honestly love it and would highly recommend while visiting to try it.
Dugh
This delicious and difficult to correctly pronounce drink is Afghanistan’s version or ayran or laban. Dugh is a sour yoghurt drink often mixed with sliced cucumber and dried mint. Some places will have a dugh fountatin which keeps the drink frothy. There are even some restaurants such as Ziyafat that serve it with a thick frothy layer on top that you can eat with a spoon. Dugh can be great for getting your daily intake of good probiotic bacteria for trying all those new foods. It is sour in taste and not everyone likes it, however for us we love it and highly recommend it.
Of course, the best way for you to have the perfect culinary journey through Afghanistan will be to join a Saiga Tours Afghanistan tour. Our places are limited on these trip so you have to get in quick to secure your place. To do so send us an email to [email protected].
