Nestled in the lush, tropical heart of Equatorial Guinea, Mongomo is a city that defies expectations and thrives on contradictions. In a country often described as underdeveloped, with limited tourist infrastructure and a reputation for isolation, Mongomo stands out as a peculiar blend of opulence and obscurity. This small city, located in the far eastern part of the mainland region of Río Muni, on the Gabonese border, is a fascinating case study of Equatorial Guinea’s oil-driven ambitions, showcasing extravagant developments that feel almost surreal against the backdrop of its poorer surroundings.
Why is Mongomo famous?
Mongomo’s wealth stems from its association with President Teodoro Obiang Nguema Mbasogo, who was born in the city and has ruled Equatorial Guinea since 1979. This connection has fuelled ambitious projects that seem out of place in a nation where much of the population lacks access to basic amenities like clean water. The city is home to the Basilica of the Immaculate Conception, one of the largest Catholic churches in Central Africa, completed in 2011. This neo-Gothic masterpiece, modelled after St. Peter’s in Rome, is a symbol of national pride and religious devotion, drawing pilgrims and curious visitors alike. Additionally, Mongomo boasts a premier golf course, a rarity in sub-Saharan Africa, and luxurious accommodations that cater to an elite few, making it a hotspot of incongruous grandeur. The current President’s uncle, and first President of Equatorial Guinea, Francisco Macias Nguema, was also born nearby, as this area is the family’s ancestral home.
A Brief History of Mongomo
Historically, Mongomo was a quiet, unassuming town inhabited primarily by the Fang people, the dominant ethnic group in Equatorial Guinea. Before the oil boom of the 1990s, it was little more than a regional hub and transit point to Gabon, surrounded by dense rainforests. The discovery of oil transformed Equatorial Guinea’s economy, and Mongomo, as the president’s hometown, became a focal point for development. The government poured resources into the city, constructing lavish buildings and infrastructure to project power and prestige. This rapid transformation, driven by oil wealth and political influence, has given Mongomo a reputation for “comfortable oddness,” where modern extravagance clashes with the realities of a developing nation.
The Weirdness of Mongomo
What makes Mongomo truly bizarre is the stark contrast between its lavish amenities and the broader context of Equatorial Guinea. The city features a world-class golf course, the Presidential course, an anomaly in a region where such facilities are virtually non-existent. The presence of five-star hotels like the Hotel Mongomo, with its elegant design and international cuisine, feels otherworldly in a country where basic infrastructure is often lacking. There is a Mongomo stadium, which has hosted African Cup matches, an oddity for an otherwise small African village. These developments create an eerie sense of a city built for a future that hasn’t yet arrived, with pristine roads and grand structures that see little use. The juxtaposition of empty, opulent buildings against the backdrop of rural poverty and limited tourism adds to the city’s surreal atmosphere.
What to See and Do
Basilica of the Immaculate Conception
The Basilica of the Immaculate Conception is the city’s crown jewel, with its towering spires and intricate neo-Gothic design. It serves as a pilgrimage site and a cultural landmark, hosting major Catholic events. It is the second biggest Catholic church in Africa and the largest Catholic church in Central Africa.
Plaza of the Presidents (Plaza de los Presidentes)
Located in the centre of Mongomo is an obelisk dedicated to the leaders of Equatorial Guinea since autonomy was granted by the Spanish, and then finally during the period of Independence. Located here is not only the current President Teodoro Obiang Nguema Mbasogo, but also his uncle, whom he deposed and executed in 1979, Francisco Macias Nguema.
Cultural Centre of Mongomo (Centro Cultural de Mongomo)
The Mongomo Cultural Centre displays local traditional arts and displays. Although not overly impressive, it does provide an insight into traditional Equatorial Guinean culture.
Where to Eat
Dining in Mongomo is surprisingly sophisticated for such a remote location. The Hotel Mongomo’s restaurant stands out, offering a high-quality international buffet that includes western dishes, a rarity in Equatorial Guinea’s interior.
Where to Stay
Accommodation in Mongomo is dominated by the Hotel Mongomo, a five-star property that epitomizes the city’s odd extravagance. Located opposite the basilica, it features facilities you would expect at some of the fanciest 5-star hotels you would find around the world.
Another option is the 3-star hotel, Hotel don Fausto, located closer to the centre of the town and slightly more modest than the Hotel Mongomo.
The Hotel Basilica, directly opposite the Bascilica of the Immaculate Conception, is a 4 Star hotel, offering services and comfort you wouldn’t expect in the heart of Africa.
Booking in advance is essential, as options are limited and demand can spike during religious or political events.
Mongomo is a city of paradoxes, where oil wealth has created pockets of luxury in an otherwise underdeveloped nation. Its grand basilica, premier golf course, and five-star hotel feel like mirages in the rainforest, making it one of the weirdest destinations in Africa. Yet, this strangeness is precisely what makes Mongomo compelling. For adventurous travellers willing to navigate Equatorial Guinea’s challenging logistics, Mongomo offers a glimpse into a country that exists on its own terms, blending natural beauty, cultural richness, and surreal ambition. Just be prepared for a journey that’s as perplexing as it is unforgettable.
