For a country where alcohol has been officially banned for decades, Afghanistan has always had a surprisingly complicated relationship with drinking. On paper, it has long been one of the driest nations on Earth. In reality, there have been periods when finding a cold beer or a bottle of whisky in Kabul was little more difficult than in many other Asian capitals, provided you knew where to look.
The story of alcohol in Afghanistan isn't simply one of prohibition. It's a story of changing governments, shifting attitudes and the constant gap between what the law said and what actually happened on the ground. From ancient vineyards and Silk Road traders to hidden Chinese restaurants and discreet delivery services, alcohol has never completely disappeared from Afghanistan. It has simply become more or less visible depending on who happened to be in power.
Before Islam: Wine Country
Long before Afghanistan became an Islamic nation, wine was part of everyday life across much of the region.
Afghanistan has ideal conditions for growing grapes, and vineyards have existed here for thousands of years. Under the Persian Empire, the conquests of Alexander the Great and later the Kushan Empire, wine was produced, traded and consumed throughout the region. Archaeological evidence suggests that viticulture was well established, while historical accounts describe wine being served at royal courts and banquets.
Even today, Afghanistan produces excellent table grapes (the type you eat rather than drink), raisins and pomegranates. The vineyards never disappeared—only their purpose changed.
The Arrival of Islam
The spread of Islam during the seventh century transformed Afghanistan's drinking culture. Because alcohol is forbidden under Islamic law, public consumption gradually disappeared and drinking became increasingly uncommon among the Muslim population.
That doesn't mean alcohol vanished overnight. Small religious minorities, foreign merchants and travellers continued to consume it, but over the centuries alcohol became something largely hidden from public life rather than openly accepted.
By the modern era, Afghanistan had developed a reputation as a country where alcohol was officially prohibited, although enforcement varied enormously depending on the government of the day.
Kabul's Golden Age
The Afghanistan many people imagine today bears little resemblance to Kabul in the 1960s and early 1970s.
The capital was a popular stop on the famous Hippie Trail linking Europe with India. Airlines connected Kabul with major international cities, foreign tourists filled the hotels and diplomats mixed with Afghan professionals in cafés and restaurants.
Hotels such as the Intercontinental served imported beer, wine and spirits to foreign guests. Whisky was readily available in diplomatic circles, while restaurants catering to international visitors quietly stocked alcohol behind the bar.
Most Afghans still didn't drink, but finding alcohol was not especially difficult if you were part of the foreign community or knew the right places.
War, Civil War and the First Taliban Government
The Soviet invasion in 1979 marked the beginning of more than forty years of conflict.
Tourism disappeared, foreign businesses closed and Kabul's social life slowly collapsed as war consumed the country. During the civil war of the 1990s, much of the city was destroyed, and when the Taliban captured Kabul in 1996 they imposed one of the world's strictest bans on alcohol.
Hotels stopped serving it. Shops disappeared. Possession itself became dangerous.
Alcohol didn't disappear entirely, but it became a genuine underground commodity, smuggled into the country and consumed only in complete secrecy.
The American Occupation (2001-2021)
When the Taliban were removed from power in late 2001, Afghanistan entered an entirely new chapter.
The arrival of NATO forces, embassies, NGOs, journalists and private contractors transformed Kabul almost overnight. Tens of thousands of foreigners suddenly lived and worked in the city, creating demand for goods and services that hadn't existed for years, including alcohol.
Officially, very little had changed. Alcohol remained illegal for Afghan Muslims, and there were still no licensed bottle shops or public bars. Unofficially, however, Kabul developed a thriving underground drinking scene.
During the first decade of the Republic, roughly until the mid-2010s, alcohol was surprisingly easy to find if you were an expatriate.
Several Chinese restaurants quietly served beer, wine and spirits to customers despite never advertising it. There were no drinks menus and no signs outside. You simply knew which restaurants served alcohol and which didn't.
Delivery services were equally straightforward. A phone call to the right number could have a case of imported beer or a bottle of Johnnie Walker, Chivas Regal or Absolut Vodka delivered directly to your house, guesthouse or compound within an hour or two. The bottles usually arrived concealed in shopping bags or wrapped in black plastic, but otherwise the process was remarkably ordinary.
Most of the alcohol was imported through unofficial channels from Dubai, Pakistan and mainly Central Asia. Premium spirits, imported beer and wine were all available, although choice depended on what had recently crossed the border.
A can of imported beer often cost between US$5 and US$10. A bottle of Johnnie Walker Black Label or Chivas Regal frequently sold for US$80 to over US$100, while premium brands could cost considerably more. Expensive by international standards, but affordable for the expatriate community that made up most of the market.
For many foreigners living in Kabul during this period, buying alcohol was less about legality than simply knowing the right people.
By the mid-2010s, the atmosphere had begun to change. As the international military presence shrank and security deteriorated, many of the businesses that quietly served alcohol became more cautious. Some restaurants stopped selling it altogether, while others would only serve trusted regulars.
Finding a beer with dinner gradually became more difficult than it had been a few years earlier.
The delivery networks, however, didn't miss a beat and continued prompt and reliable service right up until the Taliban's second coming. Even as restaurants became increasingly reluctant to serve alcohol openly, home delivery continued to operate with little difficulty for customers who had established contacts.
By the time the Taliban launched their final offensive in 2021, Kabul's alcohol scene was already a shadow of what it had been during the height of the international presence. Drinking hadn't disappeared, but it had become noticeably quieter and far more discreet.
Alcohol Today in Afghanistan
The Taliban's return to power ended even that limited grey market. Restaurants stopped serving alcohol almost immediately. Delivery networks disappeared. Foreign demand collapsed as embassies closed and most international organisations evacuated their staff.
The Taliban quickly began publicising raids on hidden alcohol supplies, with confiscated beer, wine and spirits being poured into canals and destroyed on camera as a warning to others.
Today, alcohol still exists inside Afghanistan, but obtaining it carries far greater risk than at any time during the previous twenty years and for the overwhelming majority of people, it is simply unavailable.
For outsiders, Afghanistan often appears to have had a single, unchanging attitude towards drinking. The reality is far more nuanced. The laws, the enforcement and the availability of alcohol have shifted repeatedly over the past century, reflecting the country's wider political and social upheavals. Like Afghanistan itself, the story is far more complicated than it first appears.
Planning a Trip to Afghanistan?
Alcohol aside, Afghanistan remains one of the most fascinating and rewarding places we take travellers — ancient cities, dramatic mountains and a culture unlike anywhere else on Saiga's map. If you're weighing up whether to visit, our ethical travel guide to Afghanistan is a good place to start, and you can see all of our current departures on our Afghanistan tours page .
How to Join a Saiga Tour in Afghanistan?
To join us in Afghanistan, send us an email to [email protected] and ask us any questions you might have about travelling in one of the world's most off the beaten path regions.
