Yemen is one of the hardest countries on earth to visit, but it isn't closed. Three very different destinations are in play: Hadhramaut on the eastern mainland, the island of Socotra, and the Houthi-controlled north, which is off limits. You can't travel independently to any of them. The best and cheapest way onto the mainland is across the Saudi Arabian border.
Hadhramaut: the mainland highlights
- Shibam: hundreds of mud-brick tower houses up to eleven stories high. Walk the lanes, then climb to the viewpoint for sunset.
- Seiyun: the valley's main town, with the Sultan Al Kathiri Palace, the largest mud palace in the world, and an old souq.
- Tarim: a centre of Islamic scholarship, with Al Mihdhar Mosque and its 53-metre mud minaret. Drive up Katbah mountain for views.
- Wadi Dawan (also spelled Doan): canyon villages. Trek an easy hour downhill to Hawfa and climb Buqshan's colourful palace.
- Mukalla: the Arabian Sea port, for fish markets and seafood. Stop at Al Ayoon to watch camels power a sesame oil press.
The north: why Sana'a is off the table
Sana'a is one of the world's oldest cities, but no tours operate there due to restrictions and conflict. The north has active frontlines, drone strikes, landmines and the detention of foreign visitors, and most embassies have closed, so consular help is non-existent. Sana'a airport sees only sporadic flights, mainly from Amman, and they can be cancelled without warning. A few people with Yemeni family ties or humanitarian jobs get in, and even they face heavy scrutiny. Treat the north as closed until that changes.
Socotra: a separate trip which in many ways isn’t really Yemen
Socotra is an Indian Ocean island of dragon blood trees, caves and lagoons, and it has barely felt the conflict. It runs on its own entry system:
- Visa: an operator arranges it for about US$150, and it's issued on arrival. It doesn't cover the mainland. A mainland visa does cover Socotra, but it's likely single-entry, so finish on the island or confirm with your operator.
- Flights: Yemenia flies Jeddah to Socotra direct, about US$930 return through an agent. Cairo routes via Aden with an overnight stop and an extra transit visa, about US$1,180. Abu Dhabi flights no longer run.
- When to go: October to April. May to September is hot, windy and hazy, and February and March are best for blooming bottle trees.
- Don't miss: the Firmihin dragon blood tree forest, Hoq Cave, Detwah Lagoon and snorkelling at Dihamri.
- Budget: roughly US$3,000 all in for a week or so, covering tour, visa and the Jeddah flight.
Getting a mainland visa
You can't apply at an embassy or at the border. An operator sponsors you and obtains both your tourist visa and a separate security clearance. Arrive without them and you'll be turned away.
- Book first. The visa process starts once your place is confirmed.
- Send your documents. Typically a clear colour scan of your passport photo page, a passport-style photo, and a short form with your occupation, nationality, residence and arrival date. Your passport needs six months' validity.
- Wait for approval. Allow two to four weeks, and start at least a month out. Don't buy flights until approval is confirmed.
- Print your confirmation. The visa itself is issued when you enter Yemen. It's bundled into the tour price.
Things that can derail an application:
- Israel: any evidence of travel to Israel in your passport means refusal. Tell your operator before you apply.
- Passports: use the same passport for entry and exit stamps, and mention dual nationality up front.
- Insurance: it's compulsory, and your policy must name Yemen. Many standard policies exclude it.
- Health certificate: you may be asked for one confirming you carry no communicable diseases.
- US travellers: a Yemen trip makes you ineligible for ESTA, so you'll need a full US visa afterwards.
Getting in and out
There are three main ways to get in and out of mainland Yemen:
|
Route |
Status |
What to know |
|
Saudi Arabia via Al Wadiah |
Open |
The cheapest way in. Meet in Sharurah. |
|
Fly to Seiyun (GXF) |
Open |
Yemenia from Cairo, Jeddah and Aden. |
|
Oman to Yemen overland |
Entry not technically permitted |
Exit only since March 2024. |
Entering by land: the Saudi border
Fly into Saudi Arabia, make your way to Sharurah in Najran Province, and drive to Al Wadiah. Since November 2025 it has been the only approved passenger crossing. Processing on the Saudi side is quick, with health checks, passport control and customs set up to move people through, and the Yemeni road runs through Al-Abr to Seiyun. Skipping the Cairo flight saves roughly US$1,000 and gives you far more flight choice. Plan for three things: check whether you qualify for a Saudi e-visa or visa on arrival, arrive in Sharurah a day early, and never cross without approvals and a guide.
Flying into Seiyun
Yemenia, the only airline, flies to Seiyun (GXF) from Cairo, Jeddah and Aden, around seven flights a week in total. The airport reopened to civilian traffic in January 2026, and Cairo to Seiyun takes roughly four hours. You generally can't book online: buy through a Yemenia office or agent, usually in cash, and tickets are issued only once your passport and visa details are on file. The Cairo flight adds roughly US$1,000 to a trip, so flying suits you if you're coming from far away or combining the mainland with Socotra. Schedules change, so leave slack around your dates.
The Oman border: exit only
Until March 2024, the Sarfait crossing on the coast and Shihan (Al Mazyunah) in the desert were how most foreign visitors got in, with an approval letter and a visa stamped at the border for around US$150. That's over: foreign entry from Oman is banned. Some travellers still turn up, but you'd be breaking the rules and you can expect to be turned back. Both crossings still work for leaving Yemen into Salalah, a handy exit if you're flying home from Oman. If you just want a look, drive about two hours from Salalah to Sarfait and stand at the frontier.
Safety
The UK and US governments advise against all travel to Yemen, and the US also warns against travel to the Saudi side of the Yemen border. Hadhramaut has stayed far calmer than the west, but risk is managed rather than absent. Expect a guide at all times, police escorts, and frequent checkpoints, so carry your passport or a copy. Itineraries change at short notice, and when your guide says move, you move.
On the ground
- Money: ATMs don't work with foreign cards, and credit cards rarely work. Bring clean, undamaged, recent US dollar notes in mixed denominations. A few hundred dollars covers a week of tips, souvenirs and snacks.
- Dress and alcohol: dress conservatively. Women should cover shoulders and knees and carry a headscarf. Alcohol is illegal.
- Food: lunch is the main meal, often shared from one big dish and eaten with your right hand. Try mandi (smoky, slow-cooked lamb or chicken over spiced rice), saltah (a bubbling meat-and-vegetable stew topped with frothy fenugreek, scooped up with flatbread), aseeda (a soft dough dumpling dipped in meat broth) and bint as-sahn (a honeyed bread dessert baked in the oven). Vegetarians will find choices limited.
- Health: keep vaccinations current, check yellow fever and typhoid advice, and drink bottled water. Malaria risk is low in Hadhramaut. You are also technically required to have a negative HIV test.
- Connectivity and photos: internet is patchy, so download maps first. Ask before photographing people, and skip checkpoints and security personnel.
- When to go: October to April. Summers are brutally hot in Yemen.
