5 Stans Summer Tour

• This morning we will have free time, so you'll have a chance to organise yourself for the evening ahead. We'll be checking out of the hotel in Ashgabat, but you can leave luggage behind for the overnight.
• In the early afternoon, we'll set off on our desert adventure, driving the 250km north to Darvaza, The Gates of Hell.
• One the way we’ll make a few stops – including to see a salt lake, and two other craters (one full of mud, one full of water).
• Our favourite stop on this drive though is the town of Erbent, where you'll get a real up-close look at how rural Turkmens live - very different to what you've seen so far in Ashgabat and other regional cities and towns. We'll patronise the village shop, no doubt take some photos of some dust, possibly an old motorbike or two, maybe even a camel, and if we're lucky we might bump into some school kids. We will also of course use their toilet (not a luxurious one!) before continuing on our way.
• Crossing the sand dunes to get to Darvaza, we’ll arrive in time to watch the sunset over the fiery crater and experience dusk turn to dark at this breathtaking site.
• We will either set up tents near the crater, or stay in one of the nearby yurt camps, depending on many factors, including weather. Either way though, we'll spend the evening viewing the fiery crater from every angle, seeing the colour change as the sun sets and the darkness creeps in, until the crater is in full glow. It's completely mesemerising.

• We'll wake up this morning at the Gates of Hell. What a place to wake up!
• Make sure you get your fill of fiery pits over breakfast, before we drive back to Ashgabat, arriving around lunchtime.
• We'll check into the hotel and have free time for the rest of the afternoon.
• Most people will probably want to head to one of our favourite bazaars in Central Asia – the Russian Bazaar. Here you'll have the opportunity to get some super cheap, local food for lunch, do some souvenir shopping, or if you’re in the market for a Turkmen carpet we can show you a good place to get them.
• This is also where one of the main shops for buying the famous Turkmenistan tracksuits is, so if you've made it to this point in the tour without one, and you're a bit jealous of your tracksuit-adorned fellow travellers, this is your chance to get one.
• You also might like just to go exploring, whether it's a walk to the psychadelic Ashgabat Mall, or to Tashkent Park, or to the alabay (dog) statue, or you could simply walk through one of the areas of new white marble buildings. And of course we'll be there to help you figure out what to do with your time.
• For dinner this evening we’ll go to the Yyldiz Hotel – the newest and most expensive hotel in Turkmenistan, where you can have a real 5 Star restaurant experience for 1 Star prices, complete with 360 degree views of the city.

• This morning you’ll fly on Turkmenistan Airlines! We'll arrive early in the morning at the very impractical, but equally as beatuiful star-shaped airport in Turkmenabat, from where we'll drive to Farap.
• Today we will cross the land border into Uzbekistan, another great item to add to your list of quitessential Central Asian experiences. And t his in itself can be quite the experience. Hopefully there won’t be many locals crossing and it’ll be relatively quick, but you need to have your wits about you for this crossing.
• Arriving in Bukhara probably around lunchtime, depending on how long the border crossing takes, you will have an opportunity for some free time.
• We'll be staying very close to the centre of the old town, so anyone who wishes to start exploring, you can, or for those who need some down time to catch up on laundry, messages, sorting photos, sleep, or whatever else you might be running behind on (especially after a few days of little internet connection in Turkmenistan!) this is a great chance for that too.
• In the evening we'll meet up with anyone who wants to have dinner together at our favourite spot in Bukhara, next to the lake in Lyabi Hauz square - a beautiful setting right in the centre of the old town.
• In the evening we'll sit by the lake, chilling out and taking it all in over a cold drink and a chat.

• This morning we’ll take a walking tour of Bukhara, strolling through the iconic streets of Bukhara's old town.
• Of course we'll see all the famous minarets, mausoleums, mosques and madrassas, however listing these just doesn't capture Bukhara's charm.
• Aside from the impressive brick and blue tiled buildings, at every turn there are shops selling interesting things you might not have seen before. This is a great place to buy all sorts of kinds of souvenirs.
• We'll have the opportunity to learn about and watch demonstrations of various local handicrafts, such as suzany (a local type of embroidery), blacksmithery, woodwork, cooking (usually of plov), and tons of other stuff.
• We'll end our walking tour at a huge structure that looks like a giant ark. Known as the Ancient Ark Fortress, this was the Palace of Bukhara’s Emirs, and parts of it are still open for visitors. This is probably the single most iconic building in Bukhara.
• In the late afternoon we’ll drive to Samarkand where we’ll check into our hotel and have free time for the rest of the evening.

• Once known as the “Pearl of the Muslim World”, Samarkand is a city synonymous with the Silk Road, full of towering minarets, shimmering domes and home to a splendid technicolour bazaar, which you will have time to wander around and discover for yourself.
• We'll start with what everybody’s waiting for when they go to Samarkand –  the famous and spectacular Registan Square, which is flanked by three beautifully decorated, sparkling blue mosaic madrassas. Once the city’s commercial centre, Registan Square is modern Samarkand’s centre piece and a pride of the Silk Road.
• Having died in September 2016, Islam Karimov, the First President of Uzbekistan, now has his mausoleum on the newly renamed Islam Karimov Street. Often missed on Samarkand tours, we think this is a must-see site and an important piece of the jigsaw that is Uzbekistan's modern history.
• We'll also pay visits to Bibi Khanum Mosque, Amir Timur's Mausoleum, Siyab Bazaar, and the grave of St. Daniel which is said to grow a foot in length every ten years.
• In the afternoon we'll visit Romanenko House, a place that is difficult to describe. This small suburban house has been transformed into a completely unique textile workshop where thirty men and women redesign ancient Central Asian clothing into colourful, modern designs.
• We'll organise an optional wine tasting at one of the local wine factories for anyone who's interested - this can be a really fun way to see another side of Samarkand life.
• After dinner we'll stop at the front of the Registan for the epic sound and light show that is put on every evening after dark. Some say it's tacky, others find it spectacular - whichever camp you find yourself in, it is definitely something!

• Today we'll be leaving Uzbekistan (for the first time on this tour), and going to Tajikistan, crossing the border at Jarteppa.
• Once inside Tajikistan, of course we'll do the usual things of getting everyone some local currency, and stopping for a cold drink no doubt, before visiting a few ancient sites in and around Penjikent.
• Our first stop will be the UNESCO listed ruins of Sarazm, an archeological site dating back to the 4th Millennium BC (yes, millennium, not century!).
• In Penjikent you’ll visit the Museum of Rudaki, the local bazaar, and the ruins of Sogdian and Sarazm.
• In the evening we will arrive in Dushanbe, Tajikistan's capital city.
• Overnight in Dushanbe.

• We’ll take a tour of Dushanbe's city centre, including Rudaki Street, the Somoni Monument, and the Building of National Spirit (unfortunately it’s not possible to go inside, but it’s still impressive from the outside).
• We'll also walk through Ce ntral Park, where you can gawk at the huge flagpole which was the largest in the world from 2011 to 2014.
• We’ll visit the largest teahouse in the world, which is actually a series of insanely impressive funtion rooms, all adorned with incredibly ornate, but very varied, decorations. From the room that is lined in entirely mahogony, to the mirror room, or the pastel detail of traditional Tajik decor, they all share one thing - the resplendence.
• Then we'll visit the Museum of National Antiquities, where we'll see one of the biggest (literally and figuratively) objects of Tajik pride - the "Buddha in Nirvana" (Reclining Buddha), an impressive 13 metre long clay statue. ​​​​​

Dushanbe to Khoja Obi Garm

• This morning you'll have a chance to get some more treatments, take some photos in different light, or just explore the buidlings and grounds some more, before we leave the Soviet splendour of the previous night behind us.
• Today we will be doing a full day drive through the famous Fann Mountains to Khujand.
• We'll be driving via Istiklol Tunnel, sometimes known as the “Death Tunnel”, 2,630m above sea level.
• There will be plenty of stops on the way though for photos, toilets and of course lunch.
• The best stop though will be at Iskanderkul Lake (2,255m above the sea level), wh ere there will be an opportunity to go for a 40 minute hike to the local waterfall after arriving at the lake, or if you’d prefer, you can just relax by the lake or go on a shorter walk around it.
• Overnight in Khujand.

• Start the morning with a sightseeing tour of Khujand including the Panjshanbe bazaar, Sheikh Muslihiddin Mosque and the Mausoleum of Khujand.
• A highlight of Khujand will be the massive Lenin statue, standing majestically on the side of a hill overlooking the city, this is now the largest statue of Lenin still standing.
• In the afternoon, cross the border back into Uzbekistan.
• Drive to Tashkent, Uzbekistan's capital city. Despite certain likenesses between Tashkent and Ashgabat, with their wide boulevards, artificially manicured lawns and pristine facades in front of crumbling Soviet buildings, Tashkent is a vibrant capital city with lots to do.
• Arriving in the afternoon, we'll take a stroll from Independence Square, formerly Lenin Square, along the Broadway. On the way we'll also pass the statue of Amir Timur, the Romanov Palace and the Uzbekistan Hotel (a must for any Soviet architecture lovers).
• This is a great way to take in the atmosphere that is modern Tashkent around dusk, a city which is quickly becoming hip and modern. With myriads of food and drink stands, a small market, scooters for rent, and loads of cool Tashkentians, young and old, it's a great place to start getting a vibe for the city. We can stop and browse in the small market full of old Soviet trinkets, sit under a shady pagoda for a cold drink or ice cream, check out the miriads of food trucks and market stalls, and find somewhere nice to have dinner.
• We'll have dinner in one of Tashkent's many up and coming restaurants, and if you're a bit sick of Central Asian food by now, this is a great chance to have something else. We might find something at the Broadway, or there's a great Korean restaurant that's one of our favourites for example.
• Overnight in Tashkent.

• We'll spend today exploring Tashkent, starting with the famous Chorsu Bazaar, with its iconic blue dome that's now home to meat, dairy and dried fruits. Exploring the stalls you'll learn about traditional bread-making methods, local remedies for everything including of course virility issues, and how Uzbek babies are taught to go to the toilet.
• From here, we'll jump on the Tashkent Metro, one of only two metro systems in Central Asia (the other one being in Almaty). As with most Soviet built metros, the stations are unnecessarily lavish, but Tashkent's are particularly ornately decorated. Until June 2018 it was illegal to take photos inside them, but fortunately now pictures of these incredibly photogenic stations are allowed.
• We'll get off at a couple of stations on the way to have a look at our favourites, but we'll use the metro to get to our next stop - the Museum of Railway Techniques.
• This outdoor museum is full of all sorts of old locomotives, and they don't mind us climbing all over them. We can even take a little train ride around the train museum. You don't have to be a train lover to enjoy this charming museum.
• You'll most likely have tried plov by now, but nothing will prepare you for the National Plov Centre, which will be our lunch stop for today. An absolutely massive operation, with an army of Uzbeks preparing multiple varieties of plov in unbelievably huge cauldrons, it is an exceptionally unique experience, and a great place to try the national dish if you haven't already. Coffee, ice-cream, salads, all sorts of juices and teas and of course super freshly baked bread are also available.
• From here we'll make our way to the Tashkent TV Tower for fabulous 360 degree views of the city. Another iconic piece of Soviet architecture, the inside of the tower itself is just as interesting as the views or the outside.
• And finally, we'll visit Tashkent Land, Central Asia's answer to Disneyland. With its faded welcome sign, crumbling gift shop and creaky rides, this is definitely a step back in time. Most tourists don't make it to this gem of Soviet infrastructure, but we just can't resist it. It's probably just as well that the exhilirating “Boomerang” rollercoaster has finally been decommisioned, but our favourite ride is still there - the “African tour”, a boat trip through the jungle land.
• Tonight is another opportunity to eat in one of Tashkent's many great restaurants, before we have limited options again for the next few days.
• Overnight in Tashkent.

• Today is full of SAIGA favourites, and is one of the days on any Uzbekistan tour that we look forward to.
• Heading out of Tashkent, we'll drive to Parkent, where we'll visit one of our absolute favourite examples of Soviet architecture. The second largest solar furnace in the world. "What's a solar furnace?" you might be wondering. Good question! Come and find out.
• From here we'll continue into the mountains. But first we'll stop in the often-overlooked town of Angren, to whet our Soviet appetite even further, with several cool murals and statues and a really well-preserved House of Culture.
• And next we'll make it to our final destination of the day - the town of Yangiabad. A closed town during the Soviet Union, not even appearing on maps, it was built as a mining town where exiles were s ent. Once home to about 10,000 people, the population got down to just over 300, and it felt like a crumbling little Russian enclave within Uzbekistan. However, in the past couple of years the mountain air and scenic views have grabbed the attention of Tashkentians, and the area has become a popular local tourism spot.
• We'll spend the afternoon wandering the streets of the town, exploring the Soviet architecture, and soaking in the atmosphere - a difficult-to-describe mix of lively and summery, and decrepit and derelict.
• We'll spend the night at a nearby Soviet “resort”. If it's hot you can go for a swim in the river, or if you just want to relax, we might be able to find the massage lady.

• We'll drive through the Fergana Valley in the morning, crossing the border into Uzbekistan around lunch time, and arriving in Osh in the afternoon.
• Our first stop in Kyrgyzstan, Osh feels a lot different to Bishkek. There’s a bit of a rugged, w ild west sort of feel, that’s quite charming.
• We’ll visit the sacred Sulaiman Too Mountain, the main attraction in Osh.
• We’ll walk to the top of the rocky outcrop, no doubt meeting lots of local pilgrims happy to have a chat on the way.
• Not only is the scraggy hill a site in itself, with amazing views out over the whole city, and also peppered with ancient petroglyphs, but it’s also home to Sulaiman Too Museum, one of those famous crazy Soviet buildings that appear on all the lists of weird Soviet structures.
• If there's time we’ll go to the Osh bazaar, one of Central Asia’s largest open-air markets. This is a great opportunity to find some cool souvenirs – hats, coats, rugs, fabrics, ornaments, loads of the cool stuff you’ve been admiring on locals and in their houses since being in Central Asia.

• Leaving Osh today we'll start our road trip through rural Kyrgyzstan. The next few days, until arriving in Bishkek, will be full of naturally beautiful waterfalls, lakes, mountains, yurts, horses, small villages, plains covered in flowers, and roadside fruit and honey stalls.
• Our first stop will be at the Uzgen Minaret, an 11th Century, 27.5m tall tower, alongside three mausoleums.
• We'll be driving along the extremely picturesque Naryn River for most of the day, as we wind our way through western Kyrgyzstan.
• We might stop and buy a watermelon or a box of strawberries, so we can kick it local style and have a lake-side picnic at Toktogul Reservoir. A very popular place for locals to set up for an entire day, with makeshift tents, camp seats and tressle tables everywhere, we'll stop here for a refreshing swim and just to relax and hang out for a while.
• We'll arrive at our destination for the day in the late afternoon. The town of Toktogul, 1000 metres above sea level, was originally named after Toktogul Satylganov, a well-known Kyrygz poet and musician. His contributions and talent were so extensive that he is featured on the 100 Som note.
• You can go for a wander around the town if you want to, before we have dinner at our homestay for the night.

• Leaving Toktogul, we’ll drive through the Suusamyr Valley towards Kyzyl Oi. On the way though we'll take a slight detour to follow the It Agar River and make a stop at Ozero Sazka - Reflection Lake. Named for good reason!
• After a short walk past a yurt camp, a bunch of horses, and across a small stream, we'll come out at the edge of the picturesque lake.
• Continuing on our way we'll stop in the very small village of Manas, where there's a wonderful, you guessed it - statue of Manas.
• Our next small detour will be to the even smaller village of Kojomkul, where you'll never guess what there is - a monument to Kojomkul! Kyrgyzstan's most famous strong man, who you'll a lot about during our trip.
• We'll arrive in Kyzyl Oi in the late afternoon, an old village located in the Suusamyr Valley in a narrow gorge of the powerful Kokomeren River.
• At 1800 metres above sea level, and characterised by scattered reddish clay houses, it gets its name which means “Red Bowl” from the formation caused by the high red mountains surrounding it.
• We'll arrive in the late afternoon and meet our favourite local family in Kyzyl-Oi.
• You should have some time to explore the town a bit if you like, or you can watch/help the ladies of the house prepare dinner.
• If the grandfather of the house is around, he'll show you ordo (a tradtional game involving throwing animal knuckles at other animal knuckles), and his chicken rearing techniques, and tell you all sorts of stories about life in rural Kyrgyzstan during and after the Soviet Union.

• Today we’ll drive to Song Kol Lake through the Jumgal Valley, crossing the Kara-Keche Pass, stopping for a picnic lunch on the way.
• After the epic drive, we’ll arrive at Song Kol. Set high in the mountains, the lake itself is in the middle of a fertile plateau, dotted with horses, sheep and yurts.
• Even though it’s summer and we’ll have been hot up until now, we’ll now be very glad to have stoves on in each yurt for warmth, and you might even pull out a jumper in the evening.
• Depending on how early we arrive, you'll have the opportunity to go horse riding, or just take a walk around the area or if you’re really brave, a dip in the lake. Either way it’ll be a relaxing and peaceful evening under the stars.
• Dinner will be in the main yurt at our camp, cooked by the family we’re staying with.

• Leaving Song Kol this morning, we'll gradually head back to civilisation today.
• Other than some spectacular photo ops, our first stop on the four-hour drive to Bishkek, will be in the town of Kochkor.
• Although most of the time this would be considered a small, rural town, compared to where we've just spent the last few days, this will feel like the big smoke!
• We'll stop at the Soviet WWII memorial and the Lenin statue, both in the centre of town. We'll also take you to our favourite souvenir shop in Kyrgyzstan - run by local women, it's a great spot to find most things you might be looking for, from handicrafts, to antiques, and everything in between.
• We'll take a short walk through the market, and have lunch.
• This afternoon we'll visit Burana Tower, one of Kyrgyzstan's most famous sites. A 25 metre brick tower, this was once a 45 metre tall minaret, which was once the minaret of a mosque in Balassagyn city. Now you can climb to the top of it for some great views over the nearby landscape.
• With a couple more quick stops, such as the mounted MiG aircrafts in the nearby town of Tokmok, we'll arrive in Bishkek in the evening.
• And now we're really back to civilisation!
• Now in Bishkek, we might want to take the opportunity to eat something other than Central Asian food - there's an excellent Japanese restaurant that we love, we could get burgers or pizzas, Chinese or Korean, or of course there are plenty of options if we want to stick with Kyrgyz food.
• Then afterwards we can go out and experience some of Bishkek's rapidly gentrifying nightlife, maybe at Save the Ales or some of the many other cool ever-emerging options.

• We'll start the day by doing a walking tour of Bishkek, a quintessential Soviet city with an amazing mix of Stalinist and Brezhnev era architecture. The wide boulevards and Brutalist apartment blocks, in stark contrast to the snow-capped mountain backdrop.

• We’ll start with the Frunze Museum, dedicated to Mikhail Frunze, whom the city of Bishkek used to be named after (and why the airport code is still FRU!).

• Making our way past Victory Square, the circus and Tsum, we'll visit the Lenin Statue and Ala Too Square, home to the National Museum of Kyrgyzstan and a large Kyrgyz flag. Although this flag isn't quite as famous as their world-record holding neighbours, Tajikistan and Turkmenista n, it is still impressive and every hour, on the hour, there's a changing of the guards.

• We'll continue on to Osh Bazaar, passing the White House on the way, and we’ll finish off the day learning about some of the weird and wonderful produce and delicacies you’ll find in the market.

• In the afternoon there will be some free time so you can do some exploring yourself.